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If you’re obsessed with skin care, you’ve probably heard of the skin-cycling trend and may even be a loyal devotee. The method, which calls for using different products on different days, now extends to your hair-care routine as well. It makes sense—after all, the scalp is skin. Known as hair cycling, this buzzy routine might be just what your strands need to look their best.
For experts’ take on the trend, we tapped a dermatologist, a trichologist, a hair stylist, and a hair colorist. Read on for their definition of hair cycling and how to do it, so you can decide whether or not it’s for you.
What is hair cycling?
To understand the hair-cycling trend, you must first be familiar with its predecessor: skin cycling. Named by dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD, the idea of skin cycling is to follow a four-night cycle of using active ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and retinol, on nights one and two, then applying only moisturizer on nights three and four to let your skin rest and recover. If you think about it, this makes total sense–constantly using exfoliants and harsh retinoids on your skin without taking a break is a one-way ticket to dry, irritated, and overall unhappy skin.
Now, on to hair cycling. Similarly, “hair cycling is to regularly and systematically alternate products used on the scalp and hair in order to maximize hair health,” explains Nava Greenfield, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. There’s a catch, though: Unlike skin cycling, hair cycling is not quite as straightforward. Because everyone’s hair type and needs differ so greatly, there isn’t one right way to hair cycle.
Instead, it requires you to check in with the state of your scalp and hair before deciding which products to use. Celebrity hairstylist Clariss Rubenstein instructs you to alter your routine “depending on how your scalp is feeling and how your hair products are performing.”
Diana Solovastru, a certified trichologist for hair-cycling brand Freewill, elaborates, “The idea is to give your hair what it needs when it needs it—whether that’s moisture, protein, detoxification, or strengthening—by alternating products rather than relying on the same routine every wash.”
How to hair cycle
“Hair cycling is not one-size-fits-all—everyone’s routine will look different based on their hair type, texture, and specific concerns,” reiterates Solovastru. She explains that “someone with fine, straight hair might cycle between a lightweight conditioner, a clarifying shampoo, and a volumizing spray, while someone with thick, curly hair might focus on deep-conditioning treatments, leave-in conditioners, and curl-defining products.” This also depends on how often you wash your hair; that will dictate when you switch out your products, which is why hair cycling is so personal.
A pared-back version of hair cycling could consist of only two products, says Dr. Greenfield. “You at least need a hydrating shampoo and a purifying shampoo.” For a good, hydration-boosting wash, try Freewill Restorative Shampoo. But if you’re a maximalist, you can get creative and build out your hair-product wardrobe to your heart’s content. Just remember, it’ll take some trial and error to get your routine just right.
“Keep in mind that you also should incorporate rest days when you don’t use product at all,” says Dr. Greenfield.
Overwhelmed by the idea of curating your own hair-cycling routine? Here’s a shortcut: Freewill offers a quiz that you can take about your own unique hair needs, and it’ll tailor a product assortment for you.
Hair cycling with color-treated hair
If you color your hair, then you know that the frequency with which you wash and what you use to wash and style can really make or break the vibrance of your shade. To help keep your color looking its best, Rachel Bodt, celebrity hair colorist and owner of Homecoming Salon in NYC, says that in a perfect world, your routine would have the following types of shampoo: detox, color-depositing, protein-based, and moisture-boosting. Switch each time you wash.
Bodt’s recommendation for a detox shampoo is K18 Peptide Prep Clarifying Detox Shampoo because “it removes mineral and product buildup on the hair, but it won’t remove your glaze, which can be an issue with other clarifying shampoos.”
If you find that your color fades quickly—as it typically does for red hair colors—Bodt recommends incorporating a co-wash. So if you wash your hair two times a week, you would alternate with one of each of the four types of shampoo and then use a co-wash for your second wash of the week. “It’s great for cleansing and removing oil without stripping color or moisture,” she says.
Hair cycling for scalp health
Your hair products aren’t only for the lengths of your hair, but for your scalp too, so it’s important to consider how the skin on your head is reacting. “If too many drying shampoos are used, that can dry out the scalp as well,” points out Dr. Greenfield. “Cycling can help rest the balance so that scalp skin is healthy.” Similar to the sentiment of “look good, feel good,” if your scalp is in a healthy state, you should experience healthy hair growth. Dr. Greenfield recommends Grown Alchemist Hydra-Restore Shampoo as one of your cycling products because it’s formulated specifically with the scalp in mind.
Cycle your treatments too.
We know, your valuable shower space is being taken up by all these products, but your hair (and scalp) will thank us! If you currently use a hair mask or another type of treatment, you’re probably only using it every few washes, so you’re essentially hair cycling already!
For the most part, your treatments are going to be restorative, so you can pair them as you’d like. (Protein, moisture, and bonding formulas play well with most cleansing routines.) But it’s especially important to use a moisturizing formula after a clarifying or detox shampoo, so follow those up with a moisture treatment or mask. We like Rōz Foundation Mask, which is packed with a nourishing combo of vitamin E, rice bran, and rosemary-leaf extracts.
Don’t overload your hair.
“Just as with skin cycling, it’s about finding the right balance and not overloading your hair with too many products at once,” says Solovastru. “Also, consistency is key—give your hair time to adjust to the new routine, and don’t be afraid to tweak the cycle as needed.”
Lisa DeSantis is a freelance lifestyle writer, editor, and brand consultant whose work has appeared in Cosmopolitan, Elle, Well and Good, Byrdie, and others. Her favorite topics to write about are beauty, health, and wellness. Follow her on Instagram @lisa_desantis_.